The 11th century San Carlo Church in Negrentino, Blenio Valley. (©_Switzerland Tourism)

The SOPRACENERI region takes in the whole of the northern two-thirds of the canton. Road and rail lines stream down from the Alpine tunnels, bypassing the Ticinese hinterland and funnelling into the cantonal capital Bellinzona, a quietly elegant place often passed over in favour of the lakeside resorts – the latter exemplified by shades-and-gelatiLocarno, revelling in its location at the tip of the idyllic Lago Maggiore. The real beauty, however, of this rugged region lies in the very hinterland that most people see hurtling past at 110kph. Unspoilt Alto Ticino, comprising a network of wild, pre-Alpine valleys and mountain-top lakelets glittering in clear, crystalline sunshine, holds some of the best walking in the country.