Accommodation in Zermatt is almost always excellent. The village is so used to tourists – in fact, there is no village without the tourists – that service has been fine-tuned and facilities across all price brackets are good. There are literally dozens and dozens of hotels (the tourist office lists 63 just within the village), so you shouldn’t have any problem finding somewhere to suit; high season is an exception, when you shouldn’t arrive without a reservation. It must be said, too, that Matterhorn views from your balcony or window are truly worth paying for: the mountain is so magnificent that you won’t get bored of opening your eyes to it each morning.

The favoured method of accommodation in the village, though, is renting an apartment or chalet – but you should do this well in advance (some places are booked a year ahead), and note that you almost certainly won’t be able to get a chalet for less than a Saturday-to-Saturday week. Only a handful of owners are willing to rent for less, and then only in the low season for a minimum three days.

Camping and hostels

The Matterhorncampsite is just north of the train station (Phone & fax 027/967 39 21; June–Sept). The large HI hostel, way out in Winkelmatten beyond Steinmatte (027/967 23 20, fax 967 53 06; a; mid-June to Oct & mid-Dec to May) has dorm beds, many with enticing Matterhorn views, for Fr.42 half board (breakfast plus a packed lunch or dinner), as well as bike rental. In the same quarter but on the riverbank, the Swiss Backpackers Matterhorn hostel (027/968 19 19, fax 968 19 15) has dorms from Fr.37 (breakfast only).

Inexpensive hotels

• Alpina (027/967 10 50, fax 967 28 65). Down in the Hinterdorf, with amiable staff and a calm atmosphere. c.
• Mischabel (027/967 11 31, fax 967 65 07). Another quality choice in quiet Hinterdorf, an old creaky-floored building with fresh, sunny rooms (none en suite) and Matterhorn views. b.
• Naturfreundehaus (027/967 27 88, fax 967 60 29). Well-kept, cosy rooms (none en suite) far away from the bustle in Steinmatte, some with the views. b.
• Post (027/967 19 32, fax 967 41 14). Funky main-drag institution, with a popular bar, disco and youthful restaurant topped by a handful of comfortable, individually styled rooms. c–d.
• Welschen (027/967 54 22, fax 967 54 23). A real find, up on a hill beside the Sunnegga station, small, pleasant, spotless and atmospheric. c.

Mid-range and expensive hotels

• Allalin (027/966 82 66, fax 966 82 65). Down-the-line central “garni” hotel beside the church, with new decor and plenty of comforts, including balconies on all rooms (including ones facing south to the Matterhorn). d.
• Bijou (027/966 51 51, fax 966 51 55). Far away from the centre on a slope just next to the Matterhorn cable-car, a small family-run place with some nice, cosy touches in the rooms. c–d.
• Bristol (027/966 33 66, fax 966 33 65). Excellent mid-range choice, with efficient, friendly service and cosy rooms – those facing south with picture-postcard views (go for the upper floors). d–e.
• Matterhornblick (027/967 20 17, fax 967 50 93). Another modern place beside the church, drenched in light pine but living up to its name, with mountain views out back. d.
• Perren (027/967 01 45, fax 967 55 62). A graceful, modern hotel on the riverbank, with an appealing stylishness to its well-appointed rooms. A bargain. c–d.
• Pollux (027/966 40 00, fax 966 40 01). Modern glitzy place bang on the main drag, with plenty of style and comfortable rooms, some facing off the street. d–e.
• Zermatterhof (027/966 66 00, fax 966 66 99). The grandest hotel in the canton, and one of the finest in the country, built well over a century ago but glitteringly up to date inside, this manages to be effortlessly luxurious without a hint of tasteless resort swagger. h–i.