Eating wins no prizes for invention or quality. Body and soul are kept together by simple diners such as Crêperie Ma Bretagne opposite Parking Victoria in Montana, Café du Centre beside the church, or Le Bistrot opposite Montana tourism. The Auberge de la Diligence (027/485 99 85), 500m east of Montana’s Vermala station, is Lebanese-run, and serves up quality Middle Eastern food (menus Fr.20); it also has affordable rooms (b). Next door, the Hôtel de la Forêt (027/480 21 31) caters specifically for vegetarians.

Café-Bar 1900 is the place to hang out in the centre of Crans, just round the corner from the Rue du Prado with all the big glitzy designer names – Vuitton, Gucci, Hermès and all. Pizzeria Le Prado is a welcome burst of reality amidst the street’s boutiques, serving inexpensive thin-crust pizza and some pasta dishes.