Panoramic view of the alps © Jacques Kuenlin

Ten minutes on the bus past Gruyères-gare is MOLÉSON village, a small, bucolic resort giving access to the heights of Le Moléson mountain, via a funicular and gondola. The village square has as its focus a dairy dating from 1686 (May–Oct daily 9.30am–10pm), where cheese is made according to the old mountain ways. To view the cheesemaking process, you must reserve ahead with the Moléson tourist office (026/921 24 34, www.moleson.ch). Panoramic views from the summit of the Moléson, at 2002m, take in Lake Geneva, the Prealps and even Mont Blanc, and there are plenty of ridge-top walks and, in winter, easy-to-medium ski runs.