Scuol has no monopoly on places to stay in the valley. Ftan has a couple of hotels – the charming, traditionally styled La Tschuetta stands out (081/864 12 30, fax 864 80 68) – while the Piz Buin, at the edge of Guarda village (081/862 24 24, fax 862 24 04, hotel.pizbuin@bluewin.ch, www.pizbuin.ch), is also remarkably good value. Both villages have excellent restaurants. Cross the river from Ardez on a covered wooden bridge to reach the ultimate in tranquil campsites, Sur En (081/866 35 44, fax 866 32 37), open year-round.

Scuol’s train station is over 1km west of the centre, which is a bus ride or a ten-minute downhill walk away. The helpful tourist office is beside the post office (CH-7550) on Stradun (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 2–6.30pm; June–Oct & Dec–April also Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm, Sun 4–6pm; 081/861 22 22, www.scuol.ch). Head over the bridge below the Old Town to reach the campsiteGurlaina (081/864 15 01, fax 864 07 60; June to mid-Oct & mid-Dec to mid-April). Although Scuol’s main drag has plenty of more or less ordinary hotels, there are a couple of traditional sgraffitied gems clustered around Plaz, the old village square: Gabriel, Rablüzza 159a (081/864 11 52, fax 864 83 58, hotel.gabriel.scuol@bluewin.ch), is the best value, a rambling old house with terraces, roof gardens and spotless rooms; Engiadina, Rablüzza 152 (081/864 14 21, fax 864 12 45), retains its attractive, oriel-windowed exterior, and also has comfortably renovated guest rooms, some of which are panelled in light, knotty pine. There are inexpensive restaurants along Stradun, including Traube, which serves quality regional fare (menus from Fr.25).