The valley by night © Grindelwald Tourismus

At Zweilütschinen south of Wilderswil, the road and the train tracks divide: one branch heads south to Lauterbrunnen, while the other follows the course of the Schwarze Lütschine torrent east through the Lütschental valley into broad open uplands and the hugely popular resort of GRINDELWALD. Unlike Wengen and Mürren over the ridge, Grindelwald is accessible by car and bus, and thus sees a great deal more tourist traffic than the Lauterbrunnen resorts. Although there are many ways to escape the crush, the village’s main drag comes as a jarring blast of commercial reality.

Rural character is to be found out of the village. Nestling under the craggy trio of the Wetterhorn, Mettenberg and Eiger, Grindelwald offers easy access to explore some large glaciers close-to, and has a network of cable-cars leading up to numerous short- and long-distance trails throughout the region and beyond. Skiing is excellent, but there are also plenty of hiking trails which stay as such all winter, making this a top choice for non-skiers on a winter holiday.